Editing A Coloured Scan For My Blog

Here is the original un-edited photograph of my work. File Size: 8.72 MB, File Format: JPEG

I cropped the image to begin with, removing the excess area and leaving me with the desired sketches instead. Next, I adjusted the levels slightly to correct the exposure and then used the Colour Balance tool to correct the colour cast. Now, I had to resize the image to allow it to fit onto my blog. This was down by resampling the pixel size from (1017 pixels width x 929 pixels height) to (800 pixels width by 600 pixels height). Finally I turned resampling off to adjust the resolution from 300 dpi to 72dpi to reduce file size, and saved it as a JPEG with medium quality.

Here is the edited image of my work. File Size: 32 KB, File Format: JPEG

Editing A Scan For My Blog

Here is the original un-edited scan of my work. File Size: 7.43 MB, File Format: JPEG

First I cropped the image quite a bit as I wanted to focus on a few sketches rather than the whole piece. Next, I made some adjustments to the brightness and contrast to try and correct the exposure. As it was a sketch I didn't need to adjust the colour balance thankfully and instead moved onto resizing the image instead to allow it to fit onto the blog. This was done by resampling the pixel size from (907 pixels width x 1603 pixels height) to (600 pixels width x 800 pixels height). The final thing I needed to was to adjust the resolution, by turning resampling off, from 300 dpi to 72 dpi to, once again, reduce the file size, and from there I saved it as a JPEG with medium quality to also reduce file size.

Here is the edited image. File Size: 67 KB, File Format: JPEG

Copyright

Who owns the Copyright of a Photograph?

• A photograph is classed as a Work of Art.
• The Photographer who created the picture owns the Copyright of the image.
• Or a Company could own it if the Photographer is in the employment of the company, and takes the photograph as a part of his or her contractual duties.

How would we infringe the Copyright of a Photograph?

• By Copying it.
• If we copy a photograph in any sort of manner (such as downloading it, making a photocopy, re-photographing it, scanning it, etc) we're infringing the photographer's Copyright, and thereby breaking the law.

How can we legally copy Photographic Images?

• By gaining permission to do so from the photographer.
• If we're not able to find who the photographer is after exhaustive searches, backed up by legal proof of search, then legal judgement can be made to class the photograph as 'An Orphan Work', thereby giving a company or individual copyright of the image until the creator of the image comes forth with proof of creation of the Work of Art.

How long does copyright of a Photograph last?

• For 70 years beginning at the end of the year of the Photographer's death.

How can we protect our own images from being copied and used commercially?

• By watermarking images that are to be in the public domain.
• By ensuring that if your images are in the public domain they're traceable back to you.

Adding A Watermark

Here is the original un-edited scan of my work. File Size: 729 KB, Formar: JPEG

Here is the original un-edited scan of my work. File Size: 729 KB, File Format: JPEG

This piece was a part of a series of characters I created for an animation project. The two pictured are humanised versions of the Rat (left) and Ox (right) of the zodiac. To begin with, I cropped this image to remove the excess of my sketchbook. Then I made some slight adjustments to the colour balance and levels in an attempt to hide more of the pencil image showing through the background.

Now that my image was to my liking, I made a new layer and used the text tool to add my watermark, which was my email address. Next, I changed the layer's opacity from 100% to 20% and adjusted the image size from (1206 pixels width by 1479 height) to (600 pixels width by 800 pixels height). Finally, I adjusted the resolution, from 150 dpi to 72 dpi and saved the image as a JPEG. 

Here is the edited file of my work, with added watermark.

File size: 152 KB, Format: JPEG

Editing A Photo For My Blog

Here is the original un-edited photograph of my work. File Size: 2.3 MB, File Format: JPEG

First I cropped the image slightly to remove some of the excess area, then made some adjustments using the Transform/Skew tool. I recropped the image again slightly, using the crop tool and then moved on to trying to correct the camera exposure using the Levels tool. Once that was done, I made another slight adjustment with the Colour Balance to correct the colour cast. Next, I resized the image size so that the image would fit onto the blog. I did this by resampling the pixel size from (1881 pixels width x 1410 pixels height) to (800 pixels width x 600 pixels width). Finally, I adjusted the resolution, by turning resampling off, from 300 dpi to 72 dpi to reduce the file size, and saved it as a JPEG with medium quality to also reduce file size.

Here is the edited photograph of my work. File Size: 127KB, File Format: JPEG

Creating An iPod in Cinema 4D

First, we had to create the actual iPod. I did this by adding a cube object to the stage and adjusting it's properties to shape it like an iPod. I then added a plane object and tube object to the stage and did the same, adjusting the properties of each object to suit the needs. In this case, the plane became the screen and the tube became the menu. I also needed to adjust the positions of the plane and tube, otherwise they'd both be center inside the iPod. Then, in the Objects Manager, I selected all  three objects and grouped them together. That way I could shift all three objects without hassle. I added another plane object next and adjusted it's properties to create a floor for the iPod to rest on.
Now, I had an iPod shape and floor for it to rest on but no colour. So, I created four new materials and changed the colours of two of them and the textures of the other two. The colours I changed were black to use as the floor colour and then green to use as my iPod's colour. As for the textures, I used two, premade textures, one of an iPod menu and the other of an iPod screen. Then, I applied each texture to each object.
Finally I added a light object to the stage and adjusted it's properties and position. Below is the finished result.

Computers In Art And Design

Here are 10 examples of how Computers can be used in Art and Design, alongside the programs used.

       1. Websites

Websites are one of the most, if not the most, widely used examples of Computers in Art and Design. People can either set up their own website through other websites that host the site for either a small fee or even some do this for free. Usually this method is only for setting up a forum or a blog. Otherwise, you could use specific programs to create your website, such as Adobe Dreamweaver.

       2. Computer Games/Video Games

Specifically 3D Computer Games or Video Games. These are more widespread examples as almost everyone has either heard of, owned or at the very least played a Computer/Video Game. Companies exist to create these games and create new consoles to play them on, so there's a very large market with these. Valve is a good example, they produce many 3D titles, such as the Left 4 Dead series, the Half Life series (which saw the most improvement in terms of looks) and the Portal series. The most common software for creating these games is Autodesk 3ds Max

       3. 3D Movies

3D Movies have taken over the movie industry, replacing the old 2D animation styles. Disney, Pixar and Dreamworks are probably the biggest companies in the Industry but there are still many others out there. A good example of the software used to create this is Autodesk Maya

       4.  Advertisements
Adverts are everywhere in the world. In newspapers, on billboards, on the internet and so forth. There's quite a few programs you can use to create Advertisements but, the best known one is Photoshop, as there's a good range of tools to use.

       5. App Games
Almost everyone today has some form of mobile device. Smart Phones, Tablets, Kindles and so forth. And almost all of these devices have some form of App store that allows you to obtain these games. Whether they're free to play or purchased for a small fee,  App Games are a big part of modern society now. Most App Games are now created with Java.

       6. Flash Games
Flash Games can easily be found on the internet. They're games played in the web browser that can be small, addictive time wasters, or big adventure games and have a range of genres. Whether you're looking for a creepy horror game or a big RPG or even a cute little Barbie game for your children or siblings, Flash games cover it all. The biggest software used for this is Adobe Flash.

       7. Illustrations, Logos and Typography
All three of these things are seen world wide both on and offline. You can find them in newspapers, on TV during adverts, on websites and even flyers, for example. Each of these three can very easily become created in software such as Adobe Illustrator.

       8. Magazines and Newspapers
Magazines and Newspapers are widespread sources of information and gossip throughout the world. Whether you want to hear about a celebrity break up or about the financial state of the country, either piece of information is easily obtained. To create the layout for them, you can use Adobe InDesign

       9. Audio and Music
Music is everywhere. From catchy pop tunes and edgy rock ballads in the charts, to little jingles at the end of an advert that stick in your head, music is all over and comes in many varieties. To create the amazing (and sometimes not so amazing) songs we hear, you need the right kind of software, such as Avid Pro Tools.

      10. Film Making/Video Production and Special Effects
If you're trying to spice up your little home movie or trying to create a serious project you need the right kind of Special Effects. While you can always use free software, like Windows Movie Maker, you don't quite get the professional looking effects. For those, you'll need something more like Adobe After Effects, Apple Final Cut or even Sony Vegas Pro.

Learning To Use Cinema 4D

First, I added the three shapes needed by going to Objects and then Primitive. The objects were all automatically placed at the '0' XYZ coordinate so I had to move them. I did this by using the Coordinate Manager. For my Sphere I changed the Z position to 300m and for the Cone I did the same but changed it to -300m.
Next, I added a floor by going to Object and then Scene and selecting floor. As the floor was also placed automatically at '0' XYZ I went to each of my objects and changed the Y position to 100m in the Coordinates Manager.
Now, to add colours to my objects and floor, I had to use the Materials Manager and selected New Material. To make obtaining colours easier I used the colour table and the colour I wanted for my Sphere. Then, I dragged the thumbnail from the Material Manager to the Sphere's icon in the Objects Manager. I repeated the process and created two more New Materials and selected the Cone and Cube's colours, then dragged each thumbnail to the shape I wanted. Next, I went back and, using the Material Editor, checked reflection and adjusted the brightness to 20% for each of my objects.
For the floor, I created a New Material then went to Texture, Surface and finally Checkerboard. Next, as with the shapes, I selected reflection and changed the brightness to 20% before I dragged the thumbnail from the Material Manager to the floor's icon in the Objects Manager.
Finally I added an Omni Light Object then adjusted it's position with the Coordinates Manager, changing the values to 500m on the X axis, 350m on the Y axis and -300 on the Z axis. I used the Objects Attributes Manager to increase the light intensity to 150% and apply a Soft Shadow Map. Below is the finished result.

Scanning, Adjusting Size, Contrast and Colour of Patterns

In this lesson we learned how to scan in an image and make adjustments to it. First, I chose a pattern from my sample book to scan in, which you can see here.

The scanner had to be set to 150dpi resolution and the image saved as a JPEG. Then I opened the scanned image in photoshop and set the crop tool to the size of A5 paper, with a 150 pixels/inch resolution. Once this was done I cropped the image and adjusted the levels to increase contrast. Next, I opened a new Photoshop canvas at A3 size with a 150 pixels/inch resolution. Then I adjusted the hue four times by going to 'Image' then 'Adjust' and then funally 'Hue/Saturation.' Each time I changed the hue, I copied and pasted it onto the A3 canvas, putting them all together. Once all four were pasted, I saved the image as a JPEG and printed it out, so I could later cut them into A5 pieces and add them to my sample book.

Here is the finished result:

Creating Brushes

This lesson we learnt how to make our own brushes in photoshop.

First, we had to choose an image to work with, in my case I chose the butterfly you see above.  Then I had to use the selection tool to select the area around the butterfly. Because my image was too big, I had to size it down. But, once I'd done that I could go to Edit and Define Brush Preset and name it Butterfly Brush. Then, I went to the brush tool and selected my new brush from the pull down menu. Once that was done I could adjust the spacing, shape dynamics, size jitter and angle jitter for my brush, plus alter the hue jitter. Here is my finished result:

I also created a brush from Building Blocks:

And one final brush using an image of my favourite Fate/Stay Night character:

Wood Grain Pattern

This week we learnt how to create a Wood Grain Patterned image in Photoshop.

The first step was to draw an image with duel lines, so it was almost in a stencil fashion. We could go over the lines with a fine liner to darken them if we wanted. Then, we scanned the image in and opened it in Photoshop. If need be, we could use the Levels and Curves tools to adjust the light and dark within the image. Then, we used the bucket tool to fill in where colour was needed.
The next step was to find an image of wood grain and save it. Then we had to desaturate the image by going to Image, Adjustments and then finally Desaturate. Next, I changed the background on Photoshop to a new layer and placed the wood grain layer beneath this layer.
Then I changed the layer's properties to Linear Burn and this was the final result.

Painting In Photoshop

Today we were looking at creating images in Photoshop to look like still life paintings. We were to draw a basic image of an object, in my case a simple cup. Once we scanned the image in and put it on our computer, we opened it in Photoshop. If need be, we could alter the curves or levels to brighten the image or darken the lines. Next, we changed the brushes to Dry Media Brushes and altered the brush's opacity. Then, using the Magic Wand tool we selected the area's of the image we wished to colour. Then it was just a case of layering on the colour the same way you'd layer on paint.
Here's my finished result.

Posterising

For this lesson, we learned how to posterize images. This was the image I chose:

 

The first step was to go to Image, Adjustments and then Posterize. I adjust the levels and decided the posterization looked best with 5 levels. This was the result:

 

Next, I went to Image then Mode and Greyscale to change the image to black and white. Then  I went to Image and Mode again but this time selected Bitmap. I changed the frequency to 35 and got this result:

Then I copied this image by going to Select All and then Edit and Copy. I then used Step Back to return to the posterized image with colour. From here, I pasted the greyscale image on top. Then used the layer tools to change the layer's mode to Overly. That had this effect:

Finally I added a new layer and used the gradient tool with a radial gradient to add a blue and yellow gradient to the image. I moved that layer between the Greyscale layer and the original layer and then changed the opacity to 56% This was my final result:

Graffiti Tag

In this lesson we learned how to create our own Graffiti Tags on Photoshop.

Here's my created tag

The Steps Used to Make It:

First, we had to set the Canvas Size and change the brushes to Calligraphic brushes. We then added a new layer. From that, using the mouse and brush tool, I wrote out a Graffiti tag that I liked. In my case, I used my nickname - Harrie. Then, we had to add a layer style and select 'stroke'. A Layer Style box popped up and from that box I ticked Stroke, Gradient Overlay, Pattern Overlay, Inner Glow, Outer Glow and Inner Shadow. For each one, I was able to adjust things such as the colours to make the tag less boring. Once that was done, I pressed 'Okay' and then opened an image of a brick wall in Photoshop. Finally I dragged the new layer, with my tag on, onto the brick wall using the drag tool.

Silhoutte Work

In this lesson, we learned how to create silhouette images out of an ordinary picture.

Here are the images I used to create my silhouette image:

This was just an image of a tree I found on Google. It made creating the silhouette easier due to the already white background.






And this was just an image of a business man I found on Google.










To create a silhouette out of the tree I used the magic wand tool to select the white background. Then I went to 'select' and 'inverse' which meant I now had the tree selected. Once this was done, I used the bucket tool to change the tree to black and then, with the paintbrush tool and black still selected, I went over the tree's silhouette to cover over any bits the bucket tool missed. Next, with the picture of the man, I used the quick select tool to select him and the paintbrush tool, with black selected, to colour the image black and make him into a silhouette. Next, I dragged the image of the man onto a new layer for the image of the tree, by using the move tool. After I resized him, using 'free transform' and placed him where I wanted him to go, I used the paintbrush tool, with black selected, and created a bit more of a base to the tree, so it didn't look like it was just floating. Then, I created a new layer and placed it beneath the other layers. I used the colour swatch to select a grey-blue colour and then used the fill tool to colour the whole background with it. Next, I selected a smaller size for the paintbrush tool and picked out a lighter grey-blue. I made small, diagonal lines across the whole image, then used 'filter' 'blur' and 'motion blur' the make the lines look as if they were falling in the direction I'd made them go in, hopefully creating the illusion of rain.
Here's my finished image:

Stencil Work

For my first entry on this blog, I'm posting the work we've done this lesson.

During this lesson, we learnt how to take an image from the internet and turn it into a stencil, even add it onto of the wall of an underpass or building.

Here's an example of one of the two stencil's I did. For this, I saved the Fate/Stay Night logo to my desktop then opened it up in photoshop. I used the threshold tool, by going to the adjustments tab and then 'threshold', to obtain the basic black and white style of a stencil. Then, because it wasn't as smooth as I'd wanted, I used the palette knife filter to smooth it out. This was done by going to the filter tab, hovering over 'artistic' and then clicking 'palette knife.' After that, I used to move tool to drag the image onto the background I wanted and then resized it. Using 'transform' and then 'distort' I was able to change the perspective of the image so it followed the shape of the wall, making it look more realistic. I changed the layer's setting to 'multiply' and then merged that layer down to remove the white. Finally I selected the person in the image, cut and pasted them onto a new layer and moved that layer above the layer with the logo. This was so the logo looked like it was on the wall only. Above is the final result.

This example had the same basic process. The only difference was I used three different images, one of an Umbreon, one of a Pikachu and one of a Poocheyenna, and repeated the process, only up to using the palette knife tool, for each image. Then, I moved them onto a new image and positioned them how I wanted them to go, using different layers to help make it easier. I used the text tool and stencil font for the text then merged all the layers down. Then, I continued with the rest of the process, ending up with a final result I'm quite proud of.